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NORTH COAST TRAIL

A scenic, 43 km coastal trail along the North Coast tip of Vancouver Island

Statistics

Total Distance: 58.5 km (one-way)
Estimated Time: 6 - 7 days
Average Grade: 0.4%
Structure: Linear - One Way
Elevation Gain: 243 m
Start Elevation: 0 m
Max Elevation: 243 m

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Wild Coast North Coast Trail

DETAILS

The Cape Scott North Coast Trail (grand opening May 10, 2008) is a 43km extension of the existing Cape Scott trail. The trail runs along the north coast tip of Vancouver island, then joins up with the old Cape Scott trail at the end of Nissen Bight bringing the total length of the trail to about 58.5km.

This beautiful new trail has it all, you'll hike along beautiful sandy beaches with huge old growth along side of you. there are many lowland bogs and meadows you'll pass through as well, these areas have a very delicate ecosystem, with many interesting plants and trees along the way. As you hike along the coastal sections, the eye candy is endless, you'll encounter tidal pools, sea stacks, sea caves and the many interesting rock formations.

The wildlife is plentiful as well, you'll encounter many sea birds, sea otters, river otters, sea lions, gray whales as well as black bears and wolves and even the odd cougar. When hiking the trail you will encounter long sections of boardwalk, stairs, log bridges, rope sections, long stretches of sand, pebble and large cobble on the coastal route. there is also two cable car crossings, one is on the Nahwitti River and the other is on the Stranby River. The trail can be very muddy and slippery, so take extra care when hiking on slippery rocks, roots and logs.

CAMPSITES

(Note: bear caches are all placed in the *middle* of the campsites, right next to the tent platforms!)

*Shushartie Bay Campsite:

Located on a hillside just in from the trailhead, after a steepish roped section. Not a very pleasant campsite - dark forest, steep, sort of "hacked out". Three wooden tent platforms, food cache, outhouse. Map shows a water source, but none seen near camp. Might be a bushwack to get to drinking water, if there is any.

* Skinner Creek Campsite:

No tent pads, room for two tents on the ground in the forest. Has a cache and outhouse. Great camping on the beach. Good water source at Skinner Creek.

* Nahwitti River Campsite:

Not a bad site, but not as nice as Skinner Creek. Beach is pebbley/gravely (not sandy) but fairly nice. Three wooden tent platforms, outhouse, and food cache. Good water source at Nahwitti River.

* Cape Sutil Ranger Station:

Yurt Ranger Station, occupied May 15 to September 31. Emergency use only for all other times of the year. There are metal lockers (not true bear caches) behind the Yurt that can be used for food storage, but the latches are broken and the locks are rusted - not bear proof, but better than nothing. Outhouse in area, at far west end of the beach - need to follow the headland trail out for about 150 meters. Great camping on the beach. No water source!!

* Shuttleworth Bight Campsite:

Located near Irony Creek. Four wooden tent platforms, outhouse, food cache. Shuttleworth Bight is a big sandy beach, fantastic for camping. There is a water source at Irony Creek just east of the campsite, but it's shallow, slow moving, and slightly algaeish. Drinkable, but the only good water source between Nahwitti River and Laura Creek.

*Laura Creek Campsite:

Fast flowing, good water source. Beach is partially sandy but mostly gravel. Sand may be intermittently deposited or removed. Camping on beach or in campsite - outhouse, food cache, and four tent platforms. The campsite in the forest itself isn't that nice, *slightly* muddy on some of the connector trails and fairly dark.

* Nissen Bight Campsite:

Outhouse and food cache at west end of the beach in the forest. No tent platforms - camping is on the extensive sandy beach. Not uncommon to find "forts" and "encampments" people have created out of driftwood for partial shelter from the storms and/or rain. (ie/ walls, makeshift picnic tables, poles for tarps, that sort of thing). Western trailhead of the North Coast Trail and part of the original Cape Scott Provincial Park.

* Eric Lake Campsite:

Located north of San Josef trailhead, approx 3km. Entire campsite is "raised up" on boardwalks and platforms beneath an old growth forest. 12 wooden platforms, plus room for one more tent on dry ground. Outhouse and food caches. Closed as of June 2009 due to "danger trees", unclear when it will reopen. A trail leads to the lake, but the shoreline is marshy. Pleasant forest.

* San Josef Bay Campsite, First Beach:

Popular area with the day trippers, located west of San Josef trailhead. Outhouse and food caches, no tent platforms, camping on the extensive sandy beach. A bit of litter here left by the day trippers (2 of the 4 food caches were filled with garbage). Beach is very nice. No water source - the creeks passed on the way to the beach are stagnant, nasty, and mosquito infested. No water source at the main trailhead parking lot either - pack it in!

* San Josef Bay Campsite, Second Beach:

Located north of the main San Josef Bay Campsite. Can access via low tide past sea stacks and sea caves, or via a steep high tide trail. Smaller beach, doesn't appear to be used as often. Outhouse and food cache hidden off to the side in the forest. Camping on beach, no tent platforms. No easily accessible water source, although it's possible to hike up the initial part of the Mount St. Patrick trail to a ravine with fast flowing water. FEES: The fee is $5.00 (Edit: as of August, 2010, $10.00) per night per person (including tax) and you pay at the self registration box located at Shushartie bay trailhead. A fee box is also located at the San Josef Bay Trailhead. w Ranger Station located at the Cape Sutil camp location.

TRANSPORTATION:

For transportation to both ends from Port Hardy contact:
North Coast Trail Shuttle Ltd. and Cape Scott Water Taxi Ltd at

info@capescottwatertaxi.ca

www.northcoasttrailshuttle.com

Office 1 800 246 0093 or 250 949 6541 Cell 250 902 8208

PFO:

Park facility operators are located throughout the park in the high season, it may (or may not) be possible to or with the park facility operator who are located at the Nels Bight cabin during the summer. Cape Sutil Ranger Station- There is now a new yurt / ranger station. Additional stations/yurts are planned for most of the other campsites as well.

SHUSHARTIE BAY TO SKINNER CREEK:

*Accessed by water taxi - no driving route aside from a rough bushwack with river crossings (not recommended).

* Shushartie Bay is a popular place for bears. They're typically at the far end of the bay on the beaches, not at the trailhead.

* Rocky shore at the trailhead.

* There's a beach and the river/creeks/delta at the far end of the bay, away from the trail.

* Climb up the rocky shore to the large trailhead sign. There is a large map information sign and fee box here. Cash only, use envelopes provided.

* The trail is a bit rough, and almost immediately reaches a steep section with a rope. * Just after the rope is Shushartie Bay Campsite. Not a very pleasant campsite - dark forest, steep, sort of "hacked out". Three wooden tent platforms, food cache, outhouse. Map shows a water source, but none seen near camp. Might be a bushwack to get to drinking water, if there is any.

* Continue climbing uphill on the rough, muddy trail, eventually passing two minor viewpoints over the bay.

* Most of the route between Shushartie Bay and Skinner Creek is mud-bogged - expect deep (sometimes knee deep) mud and skunk cabbage growing on the trail. Even one year after the trail was opened, hikers are already widening the trail and hiking on the edges, away from the mud. Erosion is making the problem worse, and the mud pits are quickly widening - even in dry conditions. The trail has somewhat of a "hacked out trench" design in places here, complicating the issue.

* The section between the bay and Skinner Creek is regarded by most people as the toughest stretch.

* There are a some old growth trees as you climb up from Shushartie Bay Campsite, near the viewpoints.

* Trail is not direct here - winds it's way sharply around roots, trees, deadfall, etc.

* Gains and looses elevation, climbing to a maximum elevation of 225 meters - the highest point on the North Coast Trail. Cumulative elevation gains and probably much, much higher.

* Even though the distance is relatively short, expect an entire day of hiking to reach Skinner Creek Campsite.

* There are a number of boardwalks on the trail, and many more are planned.

* The trail passes through some interesting small, marshy meadows with stunted trees.

* Just before the trail reaches ocean, watch for a junction. Straight will lead to a steep gully edge - this is the wrong way. Turn left instead, and take the extensive staircase down to the creek. Hope across the shallow creek and pick up the trail on the opposite side.

* Immediately after the creek crossing is another junction. A set of stairs leads up the opposite side of the gully - this is the start of the high tide access trail to bypass Skinner Creek's beach. Instead of turning left and up the stairs, go straight - a rough trail leads to Skinner Creek Campsite and the ocean.

SKINNER CREEK TO NAHWITTI RIVER:

* Skinner Creek Campsite Located at 9km. Located on the west side of the creek. Relatively easy to cross. Possible to camp on the beach, but watch the tide tables! An inland trail bypasses the beach if high tide makes it impassable. No tent pads, room for two tents on the ground in the forest. Has a cache and outhouse. Great camping on the beach. Good water source at Skinner Creek.

* Skinner Creek is the first good water source on the trail.

* LOTS of wildlife activity where Skinner Creek enters the ocean

* Main route is along the beach, but it may not be possible to hike along it at high tide if the surf is high. Instead, take the bypass trail that starts at the stairs in Skinner Creek's gully. Normally the bypass trail won't be needed.

* Skinner Creek Campsite has a nicer beach than Nahwitti River Campsite. If the weather is calm and the tide tables agree, camping at Skinner is probably preferable.

* Beach at Skinner Creek is sandy.

NAHWITTI RIVER TO CAPE SUTIL:

* Nahwitti River Campsite:

Located at 11 km. 4 tent pads, food cache, pit toilet and info sign. Nahwitti River can be crossed at low tide. If the tide or river flow makes it impassible, hike inland on the trail along the river to the cable car crossing. Not a bad site, but not as nice as Skinner Creek. Beach is pebbley/gravely (not sandy) but fairly nice. Three wooden tent platforms, outhouse, and food cache. Good water source at Nahwitti River.

* At the end of Nahwitti Beach, the trail leads inland on a nice, dry, float, easy to follow trail along the Nahwitti River to the cable crossing. The cable crossing is fairly 'tough' and requires a great deal of force. The river water does not appear to be tidal here.

* Across the cable crossing, the trail leads back down the opposite side of the river, passing through beautiful meadows. Just past the meadows, swing to the left (near an old fishing cabin used by Roosevelt!) and pick up the trail.

* Trail climbs steeply on a rough trail, heading over what's known as "Long Leg Hill", some sections of mud. It descends back to another beach via the longest staircase on the NCT. The next beach can't be passed at high tide levels due to a stone outcrop. The outcrop area has some cool shallow "cave-like" formations and arches. Fun to explore at low tide, should be fairly easy at mid-tide if the surf is low.

* Tripod Beach: Located at 16 km.

CAPE SUTIL TO SHUTTLEWORTH BIGHT:

* Cape Sutil Ranger Station:

Yurt Ranger Station, occupied May 15 to September 31. Emergency use only for all other times of the year. There are metal lockers (not true bear caches) behind the Yurt that can be used for food storage, but the latches are broken and the locks are rusted - not bear proof, but better than nothing. Outhouse in area, at far west end of the beach - need to follow the headland trail out for about 150 meters. Great camping on the beach. No water source!! Located just after 18km.

* Beach at Cape Sutil is sandy - fantastic for camping right on the beach. No formal campsite aside from the ranger station.

* Cape Sutil is the Northern-most tip of Vancouver Island - the trail just skirts below it, due to native reserve.

* A relatively short, easy trail skirts around Cape Sutil to the opposite side

* At the end of the next beach, trail climbs up steeply then descends into a ravine. Climb up from ravine straight up onto a narrow "ledge" of land. Goes straight down opposite side - very steep!

* There are a few tiny beaches in between. Before one of the smaller beaches is a nasty rope - it's solid, eroding mud and going down the rope is suicide. Instead, look on the left to find the alternate route down. After this point it's considerably easier to progress.

* Between cobble beach 1 and 2 and beach 2 and 3 are relatively short, flat overland stretches. easy.

* Just before beach 3 access is a "high tide trail" that goes inland on the left.

* Beach 3 has some nice rock formations, but not spectacular. Beach #2 is the most sheltered for swimming. None of the three are ideal for camping.

* Beach 3 is broken up in two places by rocky shoreline/rock outcroppings. Even at mid-tide, it may be necessary to follow the inland trail that parallels the beach here. There are a few access points to it.

* After beach #3 is a moderate scramble, two ropes up. The upland beyond is a longish, relatively flat section (easy hiking). One average view of the ocean from up top. One rope back down to the beach, moderate but not too difficult.

* Beach #4 is fairly small, mainly cobble/gravel.

* Between beach #4 and beach #4 is an easy flat stretch of forest.

* Beach #5 is *large*, sweeping, and has a great view.

* Tombolo?

* A number of pocket beaches beyond the tombolo?. Some of them are fantastic with cool rock formations. After pocket beach #4 is a medium rope scramble a little ways into the forest.

* The overland stretch past pocket beach 4 is extensive, spitting out onto a sandy beach.

* Another short overland to a pocket sandy beach, then reaches a much larger beach with a rocky section in the middle.

SHUTTLEWORTH BIGHT TO LAURA CREEK:

* Shuttleworth Bight Campsite:

Located near Irony Creek. Four wooden tent platforms, outhouse, food cache. Shuttleworth Bight is a big sandy beach, fantastic for camping. There is a water source at Irony Creek just east of the campsite, but it's shallow, slow moving, and slightly algaeish. Drinkable, but the only good water source between Nahwitti River and Laura Creek.

* Stranby river cable crossing. Water seems slightly tidal, but possibly drinkable. Not great, but passable to our tastebuds at the time. ALong the river it's slightly marshy. Last 2/3 is dry. Entire stretch is flat! Very pleasant.

* Wolftrack Beach: Located at 32 km.

* Tough, tough long slog on gravel!!!!!!!!

* Coast/ocean is exposed here, straight out on the Pacific.

* Scenic, not much in the way of shade on a hot day.

* Lots of huge piles of stinking, rotting seaweed stretching along the coast.

* Sea stacks are earlier, before "the slog beaches"

* Your feet will hate you.

LAURA CREEK TO NISSEN BIGHT:

* Laura Creek Campsite:

Located just before 40 km. Fast flowing, good water source. Beach is partially sandy but mostly gravel. Sand may be intermittently deposited or removed. Camping on beach or in campsite - outhouse, food cache, and four tent platforms. The campsite in the forest itself isn't that nice, *slightly* muddy on some of the connector trails and fairly dark.

* There's an overturned metal boat at Laura Creek along with some garbage (refrigerator?). (Edit) As of mid August of 2010, the metal boat and garbage have been removed.

* Easy crossing Laura Creek!

* Overland section around Nahwitti Cone. A number of bridges - first bridge is cut log with raining, second bridge is log only. Third bridge is a "boardwalk-ish bridge". Only three crossings worth noting. First two crossings (log bridges) have good water!

* Nice boardwalk near Laughing Loon Lake. Good place for a rest.

* Lake has lily pads, somewhat marshy shore, standard forested lake. Seemed slightly larger than map/gps indicated. pleasant.

* After Laughing Loon Lake is a cool "bonsai forest", also with boardwalks.

* After "bonzai forest", trail wanders, rough and through some mud.

* Final stretch is quick descent to Nissen Bight via a staircase. Trailhead here is marked with a "Government of Canada Community Development" white sign. Very large.

* Immediately next to the NCT trailhead on the right is a high tide trail leading to the water source for Nissen Bight. VERY slow moving water, algae, dark brown. Pack water to the beach if possible, but it *is* drinkable/cookable if necessary.

* Nissen Bight Campsite: 43km? Outhouse and food cache at west end of the beach in the forest. No tent platforms - camping is on the extensive sandy beach. Not uncommon to find "forts" and "encampments" people have created out of driftwood for partial shelter from the storms and/or rain. (ie/ walls, makeshift picnic tables, poles for tarps, that sort of thing). Western trailhead of the North Coast Trail and part of the original Cape Scott Provincial Park.

NISSEN BIGHT TO SAN JOSEF BAY (Cape Scott Trail):

* Nissen Bight is a large, beautiful sandy beach. Outhouse and cache at west end in forest. No tent pads - camping on beach. Beautiful! NCT TH at east end, marked by the large white sign.

* From here, can continue south for 15 km to San Josef Bay trailhead. Camping is available at Eric Lake (approx 13km past Nissen Bight) or at San Josef Bay (approx 15 km past Nissen Bight).

TRAILHEAD:

* Ranger hut (urt) / Park Facility Operator at San Josef Bay parking lot.

* Gravel parking lot

OTHER NOTES:

* Camping fees in effect in the park May 1 - Sept 31

GPS Waypoints

North Coast Trail East Trailhead (Shushartie Bay) N50.85365 W127.86742 9U 579721 5634162
Shushartie Bay Campsite N50.85372 W127.86815 9U 579670 5634169
Skinner Creek Campsite N50.86380 W127.97529 9U 572113 5635179
Nahwitti River Campsite N50.85857 W128.00477 9U 570046 5634569
Nahwitti River Cable Car N50.85368 W128.00043 9U 570359 5634030
Cape Sutil Ranger Station N50.86920 W128.05404 9U 566563 5635706
Irony Creek N50.84419 W128.12160 9U 561843 5632866
Shuttleworth Bight Campsite N50.84367 W128.12181 9U 561829 5632808
Stranby River Cable Car N50.83344 W128.14212 9U 560412 5631654
Christensen Point N50.83394 W128.21149 9U 555526 5631655
Laura Creek N50.81065 W128.23642 9U 553798 5629047
Laura Creek Campsite N50.80841 W128.23915 9U 553608 5628796
Dakota Creek Bridge N50.79734 W128.26240 9U 551982 5627548
Nissen Bight Water Source N50.80076 W128.29175 9U 549910 5627908
North Coast Trail West Trailhead (Nissen Bight) N50.79898 W128.29294 9U 549828 5627709
Nissen Bight Campsite N50.79535 W128.30888 9U 548708 5627295
San Josef Bay Trailhead N50.68558 W128.25159 9U 552869 5615128